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Seafloor
Geologic Mapping
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To help characterize the various benthic habitats
of the Sanctuary continental shelf, a seafloor
geologic map of the shelf is being produced from
the interpretation of acoustic swath-map imagery
collected since 1995 by the U.S. Geological Survey
(USGS). In the northern Monterey Bay, 100 kHz and
59 kHz side-scan mapping systems that produce 0.4 m
per pixel resolution have been used for this work,
in addition to the collection of vertical acoustic
profiles of the sediment section to depths of about
50 m. These data were collected using USGS's R/V
David Johnston for the inner shelf and NOAA's R/V
McArthur for the outer shelf. On the southern
Monterey Bay shelf, two multibeam bathymetric
surveys were carried out in 1996 and 1998
respectively, resulting in coverage of both
acoustic backscatter (side-scan) and bathymetric
data at the 2.5 and 5-m per pixel resolution,
respectively. The multibeam bathymetric surveys
employed the Simrad EM-1000 and EM-300 systems.
Most of these images are now available on a web
browser at http://TerraWeb.wr.usgs.gov/TRS/projects/MontereySonar/.
Interpretation of this
seafloor imagery in terms of seafloor geology is
now complete and comprises a layer in our GIS
(geographic information system) for our Sanctuary
project. The resulting maps (e.g., Figure 1) show
that rock outcrops occur predominantly on the inner
and outer shelves, whereas the mid-shelf is covered
with recent sediment. Coastal areas that are
uplifting, such as the coast around Santa Cruz,
have rock outcrops at the seafloor that have been
eroded by wave action in the surf zone. In
contrast, coastal areas that are stable or
subsiding, such as the central Monterey Bay around
Moss Landing, have only recent sands and other
sediment at the seafloor. Around the Monterey
Peninsula the granites that constitute the
structural backbone of the Peninsula crop out on
the seafloor. Sedimentary rocks with distinctive
acoustic signatures can be recognized and equated
to the common rock formations around the Bay,
principally the Monterey, the Santa Cruz Mudstone,
and the Purisima Formations, from youngest to
oldest respectively.
The Purisima Formation is
the most common rock outcrop on the outer shelf and
it forms ledges and hardgrounds for many benthic
species that require a hard substrate. Outcrops on
the outer shelf are most commonly the result of
relatively more resistant cuestas of dipping rock
strata that were probably eroded down to their
present relief at times of lowered sea level, the
last of which occurred prior to 15,000 years ago.
The outcrops of the Purisima formation on the outer
shelf south of Año Nuevo are populated with
vast fields of Brachiopods (mollusk-like animals),
based on video transects, and these presumably
provide a major food source for fish and mammals of
the area.
In addition to rock
outcrops, coarse sand bodies are prominently
outlined by the acoustic imagery and occur mostly
in the 20- to 30-m depth range around the Bay.
These sand bodies are in the form of shallow, 1-m
deep troughs floored by coarse sands molded into
one-meter length waves. Such sand troughs are most
common in the offshore former Fort Ord area, and
the deepest one occurs offshore of Seaside at a
depth of 56 m. The sand waves are successfully
modeled as being produced by the oscillation of
winter-storm-wave driven bottom water during times
of the largest waves over the shelf.
The seafloor imagery and
interpreted geology will be published along with
other studies of the seafloor and water-column in a
special volume of the journal Marine Geology in
summer or fall 1999.
Stephen L. Eittreim
U.S. Geological Survey
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Physical
Oceanography in the
Sanctuary
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Through the efforts of the many marine science
institutions around Monterey Bay, moored and
remotely-sensed current observations, ship-based
hydrographic sampling, and coastal modeling efforts
have far exceeded those in most other parts of the
country. Measurements, plans, and results related
to physical oceanography in the Sanctuary during
1998 have been many. Some examples, drawn primarily
from programs at the Naval Postgraduate School
(NPS), Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute
(MBARI), and the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) are
outlined in this section.
The USGS has deployed a
moored current and temperature array on a line
offshore of Davenport in water depths of 32 m, 70
m, and 120 m. Measurements span the last two years
and include near-bottom currents and sediment data.
During the first year, an additional mooring was
deployed at a depth of about 60 m off Santa Cruz.
Across the Davenport shelf, poleward currents
dominate the mid-depth and near-bottom flows, even
during spring/summer when surface winds and surface
currents are predominantly equatorward. Results
also suggest that suspended sediment transport on
the shelf is mainly storm-driven and that Monterey
Bay is the origin of the suspended sediments. In
addition to the riverine sources entering Monterey
Bay (north of the Monterey Canyon), coastal cliff
erosion is likely to play a role. These results,
based on data from 1997, should be considered in
the context of the El Niño conditions during
that period. Observed temperatures show that the
entire shelf down to a depth of 100 m was unusually
warm, with temperatures of greater than 15° C
at depths of 60 m in November and December 1997.
During this time, unusually strong poleward
currents throughout the water column of up to 40 cm
per second were observed, particularly at mid-water
depths. The currents shifted abruptly equatorward
in early 1998 at the outer-shelf mooring. Near the
end of Feb-ruary 1998, temperatures at depth on the
shelf and sea level off Davenport dropped over a
relatively short period of several days, during a
time of both strong equatorward winds and currents
at mid-water depths. The USGS efforts are
summarized online at: http://walrus.wr.usgs.gov/docs/projects/mbms/.
A cooperative program
between MBARI and NPS has been underway during 1997
and 1998 to monitor this critical El Niño
period and the return to "normal" conditions.
Fourteen hydrographic cruises crossing the
Sanctuary along CalCOFI (California Cooperative
Oceanic Fisheries Investigations) line 67 - a
survey line that intersects the coast at Monterey
Bay - have been carried out between January 1997
and November 1998 with five additional sections
planned over the following year. A strong El
Niño signal was clearly present in the
subsurface temperatures from mid- to late 1997.
Physical oceanographic conditions at the
thermocline depths offshore returned to near normal
by the time of the 1998 spring upwelling
season.
Jeffrey D. Paduan
Naval Postgraduate School
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