Drive and Dive: The Undersea Forests of Monterey Bay

A unique mix of currents and conditions makes diving central California’s coast a spectacular day or weekend excursion.
By Michael Penwarden

The tangle of thick eelgrass waves like a wheat field in a windstorm. The cold water is so murky that I can barely see my fins as I pull myself through the surge, kicking away from shore. Fleeting thoughts of aborting the whole effort and heading in for a beer pass through my mind; after all, the water’s a shivery 55 degrees. Then, suddenly, the confounded eelgrass ends, the bottom drops away, and the vis improves. I’m at my drop spot: the kelp bed off Lover’s Cove.

I dump the air in my BC and descend into another world, an enchanted forest where the long, thick stalks of giant kelp—often called the redwoods of the sea—grow as much as 18 inches a day. I wind my way through the rhythmically swaying stands, and the light becomes dim but gorgeous, filtering through the tangled canopy and into the understory.

Here in the kelp forests along the Monterey Peninsula, when the diving gets good, it gets downright spectacular. The peninsula is located right in the middle of the immense Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary, which covers one-fifth of California’s coastline, from Marin County in the north to Cambria in the south, and extends out to sea for some 53 miles. Over 26 species of marine mammals, including seals, otters, bottlenose dolphins, whales and sea lions live here, as do more than 90 species of sea birds, 350 species of fish, four types of turtles and countless invertebrates.

For divers, the action is off the peninsula itself, a location so ecologically compelling that it’s like being in the eye of an underwater perfect storm. The enormous Monterey and Carmel submarine canyons funnel deep Pacific waters toward the shoreline, supplying it with constant, nutrient-rich upwellings. At the same time, this is where the cold California Current, streaming down from the north, meets the warmer Davidson Current from the south, the two shifting dominance and direction depending on the time of year. The result of this collision of deep-water nutrients and cold-water currents is a stunning and diverse underwater ecosystem. Everything from chitons and nudibranchs to monkeyface eels, bat rays and harbor seals can be found in these lush waters, making Monterey one of the most popular dive spots in the world.

Just over two hours by car from San Francisco, Monterey offers an outstanding range of opportunities for divers of all levels. The most rewarding diving is in the areas immediately to the north of the peninsula, from Point Pinos to Del Monte Beach; and to the south, between Pebble Beach and the Point Lobos State Reserve (in what is actually Carmel Bay). Typically, the northern area tends to be warmer and calmer, while the south offers better visibility and more plentiful sea life.

Shore dives can be advanced outings, like those off Monastery Beach, which leads to the edge of a deep-water canyon, or shallower frolics with harbor seals at the Breakwater. And if you’re up for a boat dive, any of the area’s shops can set you up with a ride, or you can launch your own boat from Fisherman’s Wharf, the Breakwater, Stillwater Cove or Whaler’s Cove.

For all the ease of access, however, it’s important to note that the conditions here can be demanding. For starters, the water temperature varies from the low 50s in winter to the high 50s in summer. That said, cold is a relative term, and you’re apt to see more divers in 7mm suits than in dry suits. Visibility, too, can drop to five feet or less, due to the area’s infamous algae bloom. But if you know where to look, you can usually find places where it’s far better; 30 feet is common in many areas, and 60 feet is not unheard of. Often, once you’ve dropped to about 20 feet and ducked into the shade of a kelp forest, you’ll find greater clarity, and the green light filtering down through the stalks can be breathtaking. Still, successful diving in Monterey requires a shift in focus: Bring a dive light and enjoy checking things out up close rather than trying to take in the big picture. You’ll also want to be confident in your ability to navigate, as getting to the best sites often requires swimming through a stretch of kelp or cloudy water.

San Carlos Beach Breakwater
If you’re in Monterey for the first time, a perfect place to start is the Breakwater at San Carlos Beach. Swim out along the breakwater wall itself and then descend to the sandy bottom, about 10 to 15 feet down. From there, locate the wall and follow it as it slopes down to about 50 feet. You’ll swim through a lush kelp forest, encountering nudibranchs, sea stars, fish and coral along the way. When you reach the end, chances are you’ll see some of the playful California sea lions that hang out here.

McAbee Beach
Between the Breakwater and the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium, right in the heart of tourist-friendly Cannery Row, is McAbee Beach. Enter the beach just below the Spindrift Inn. This is a well-protected site, making it a good option when other nearby areas are blown out. Enter the beach in the center and swim out toward the white buoy anchored near the kelp bed. Descend 20 feet along the buoy’s line to the bottom, and swim out along the old pipes into the kelp forest, dropping to about 40 feet. When you’re done exploring, it’s easy to follow the pipes back toward shore.

Lover’s Cove
Lover’s Cove is located at the intersection of Oceanview Boulevard and 17th Street, just beneath the Old Bath House Restaurant. Take the center stairway down to the beach, swim out toward the point and descend about 35 feet. Here you’re likely to find several species of rockfish, as well as kelp fish, lingcod and sculpin. Lover’s Cove is also popular with kayakers, so take care when surfacing.

Coral Street Beach
Coral Street Beach, at the intersection of Ocean Boulevard and Coral Street, tends to be more challenging than other shore dives here, but if the sea is calm, the reward is often better vis. Enter toward the west side of the beach, and find the channel out to the kelp bed, where colorful inverts, scallops and abalone thrive. If you continue past the kelp into about 50 to 60 feet of water, you’ll also find several rocky pinnacles well worth exploring.

Stillwater Cove
Continue along the western end of Monterey Peninsula, on scenic 17-Mile Drive, until you reach Stillwater Cove, located below the Beach and Tennis Club of Pebble Beach. This well-protected spot features two large rocks in the middle of the cove, where an impressive variety of marine mammals converges, including harbor seals and sea otters. A logistical word of advice: be sure to park in the public lot, and then go inside the Beach and Tennis Club’s clubhouse to let them know you’ll be diving here.

Monastery Beach
Monastery Beach is one of the area’s most famous dive sites, located on the edge of the Carmel submarine canyon. This is one of the few places where divers can reach deep water and still be close to shore, but be advised: The surf on this steep beach gets rough, and the 10,000-foot canyon demands you keep your wits about you. Expect better than average vis, thanks to the deep-water upwellings. Enter the beach on the north end, where you’ll find a dense kelp forest in about 30 feet of water. Swim out just past the kelp bed, where the canyon wall drops off dramatically into the abyss.

Point Lobos State Reserve
Another area highlight is the magnificent Point Lobos State Reserve, which landscape artist Francis McComas called “the greatest meeting of land and water in the world.” Because of its popularity and status as a reserve, diving here requires a reservation; only 15 dive teams are allowed in the water each day.
Once inside, head to Whaler’s Cove, where the gently sloping ramp serves as your entry and exit point, as well as a good spot from which to launch a small boat. From here, swim away from the ramp and head toward Cannery Point on the west side of the cove. Along the way, shine your light into the rocks that form the breakwater, where you’re likely to see lingcod, rockfish and cabezon hiding out.
Another option, if you have access to a boat, is to round Cannery Point to explore Bluefish Cove. Locals claim this is some of the best diving in all California, with calm, clear water and —thanks to the area’s protected status—plentiful, mature sea life that is unafraid of divers. The Carmel submarine canyon enters here so, as with Monastery Beach, keep a close eye on your depth and air.

Reprinted with permission from Scuba Diving magazine, 2004